Bifanas, Super Bock and Cristiano Ronaldo

PortuGOAL.net among the Portuguese supporters in Geneva

Special PortuGOAL.net correspondent, Marcelo Carvalho, describes the experience of attending Portugal’s Euro 2008 opener against Turkey:

The party for thousands of Portuguese fans began at Lisbon airport, despite the sleepy faces due to the early dawn take-off of most of the flights bound for Switzerland.

Among the several VIPs on board the plane carrying the PortuGOAL.net correspondent, pride of place undoubtedly went to the recently retired Rui Costa. The former Portugal star was his usual friendly self, happily posing for photographs and autographs, and modestly joking with the many fans who suggested that instead of commentating on the match for Portuguese TV he should have been on the pitch.

During the flight the topics of conversation were dominated by attempting to guess Luiz Felipe Scolari’s starting XI, whether or not Cristiano Ronaldo was the best player in the world, and what the programme would be in the hours leading up to kick-off in Geneva – especially where the best places to drink beer were…

Once in Geneva, with the exception of the “Fanzone”, one would never guess that a Euro 2008 match was to take place in the city. Enthusiasm among the Swiss was anything but fever-pitch, especially considering that in just a few hours the joint hosts would kick off the tournament against the Czech Republic. The Euro 2008 atmosphere in Geneva was almost as cold as the usual climate of the Alps.

Colourful fans

The same cannot be said of the Turks and Portuguese who walked the streets suitably attired in their teams’ kits, scarves and flags. The vast majority of the supporters who wandered from bar to bar were emigrants from both countries living in the city, a fact shown by the abundant Turkish and Portuguese flags that could be seen in the windows of the apartment blocks. In authentic chanting battles, the opposing sides began to face off well before kick-off, and at least off the pitch the Turks, who outnumbered the Portuguese in the streets of the city, scored a victory as they were in fine voice.

Around the stadium itself several stalls, some manned by Portuguese emigrants, were doing a fine trade in bifanas (typical Portuguese pork steak) and Super Bock (popular Portuguese beer), two faithful friends of the Portuguese football fan, which were consumed faster than a Cristiano Ronaldo run and dribble around a Turkish defender.

With energies refuelled, it was time to enter the stadium, and one has to say the reputation of the Swiss for extremely smooth organisation was not in evidence as the snail’s pace of the turnstiles meant it took one and a half hours to get inside the ground. Considering the success of Euro 2004 in Portugal, comparisons were inevitable, with a hands-down victory, regardless of patriotism, for the Portuguese organisation of the tournament.

Anthem emotion

After the emotion engendered by the lung-busting rendition of the national anthem and the usual chants, the match kicked off with Portugal dominating and their fans increasingly confident, as the Turkish enthusiasm quickly gave way to trepidation. Pepe’s first-half goal brought the initial explosion of joy only to be dashed by a linesman’s flag.

At the interval more unfavourable comparisons were made with Euro 2004, as the renovated Geneva Stadium was found wanting, with few WCs and insufficient bars to satisfy the thirsty throats that had shouted so much in the first 45 minutes, leaving several hundred Portuguese desperately trying to satisfy their necessities as the 2nd half kicked off.

Many had still not retaken their seats when the fans’ “black sheep” and most contested selection in Portugal’s team, Nuno Gomes, wasted another chance, picking out the post when clean through.

Not to worry, Pepe’s goal released an authentic avalanche of jubilation as the recently naturalised Portuguese slid the ball into the net behind which most of the Portuguese support was concentrated. The goal was the launching pad for Portugal to give a commanding display, and Raul Meireles’ goal in stoppage time after an excellent counter-attack was richly deserved.

Final whistle, joy in the streets, more chanting, partying among the fans for the abundant television cameras to capture around the stadium and all the way back to the airport, it was now time to relax after the excitement of the day and a feeling of mission accomplished: the first victory is in the bag, the positive exhibition of the seleccao in the first “do or die” game brought the fans again into unison with the team after a turbulent qualification campaign and much criticism.

Next up… bring on the Czechs!!!